Types of Pocket Watch Setting Methods

There are several ways to set the time on a pocket watch, depending on the era and type of watch.

We will introduce each method, including videos.

① Pendant Set (Pull-Out Crown)

This is the method of pulling out and turning the crown, which is common even on wristwatches.
For pocket watches, this method became common around 1900.

A watch with a crown that can be pulled up is called a pendant set.

Applying too much force suddenly may damage the crown.
Therefore, please pull it out slowly while applying force.
Once you know the right amount of force and the knack, it is easy.

② Lever Set (Sword Lever)

This method involves pulling out a small lever on the side of the dial to turn the crown.
It is commonly found on pocket watches and railroad watches from around 1900.

1. Hook the lever on the side of the dial with your fingernail and pull it out.
2. With the lever pulled out, you can turn the crown to set the time.

When pulling out the lever, make sure to pull it out all the way.
Rarely, there is a sliding method instead of a pull-out method.

③ Nail Set (Thumbtip Set)

This method involves pressing a small button near the crown while turning the crown.
It is found on watches from around 1890-1910, which was a transitional period to pendant sets.

Press the small button on the side with your fingernail or similar object while turning the crown.
You cannot set the time unless the button is pressed firmly.

④ Key Setting (Keyhole)

This is a time-setting method for old key-winding pocket watches before crowns became common.
On the back of the watch, there is a keyhole for setting the time separate from the keyhole for winding the mainspring.

In addition to the keyhole for winding the mainspring, there is a keyhole for setting the time.
The keyhole near the center is the keyhole for setting the time.

⑤ Key Setting (Direct Hand)

This method involves inserting a key into the center of the hand and turning it directly to set the time.
It is found on old British watches and others.

Open the crystal and insert the key into the center of the keyhole and turn it directly.

The hands of this type are often thick and welded, making them strong, but please turn carefully so as not to scratch the dial or hands.

Frequently Asked Questions

Which direction should the crown be turned?

When viewed from above, the crown is usually turned counterclockwise to advance the time.
However, some pocket watches are the opposite.

Is it bad to turn the time back?

Basically, it is recommended to turn it in the direction that advances the time.
Turning it backward is possible, but it seems that it may damage parts in some machines.
However, in my experience, it should be fine for fine adjustments of about 10 minutes.

However, for watches with functions other than time setting on the crown, such as chronographs and calendars, it is better to set the time only in the direction that advances the time.

What if the crown is hard to pull out?

In rare cases, the crown of an old watch may be hard to pull out.
It may come out smoothly if you turn it slightly while pulling.
If it still does not come out, please ask a watch shop to repair it.

What if the crown falls off?

The crown is a part that is subject to force, so it is considered fragile and a consumable item.
Also, even if it is not broken, it is only held in place by screws or adhesives, so it may fall off with use.

If it falls off, please take the watch and the fallen crown to a watch shop for repair.

There are types of pocket watch setting methods that are different from wristwatches.
It may seem difficult for beginners, but once you get used to it, you will be able to do it smoothly, so you do not need to be overly cautious.